Restaurant Drei Stuben Traditional cuisine with a modern twist

As we entered the Drei Stuben restaurant, we first noticed the semblance of the traditional local or Quartier-Beiz. The room was almost exclusively lined with wood, and the antique chairs and wooden tables were decorated with red and white cushions and napkins. This promised coziness and good comfort food. But we were offered a lot more.

From the start, and after a warm welcome, we were surprisingly served a Gin & Tonic - Turicum Gin mixed with the Zurich tonic water Gents. Served with fresh rosemary from the restaurant’s herbal garden, which the owner Marco Però’s mother maintains. An excellent start.

The following amuse bouche, a cod terrine with saffron dough and black rice from Piedmont, was served with bread from the trendy bakery John Baker. Currently everyone is talking about their traditional bread recipes.

For the starter we chose a pan-fried Foie Gras on cherry clafoutis and a mushroom consommé with a quail crépinette. Our enthusiasm could only be enhanced by the accompanying wine - a Passito di Noto from the Sicilian Planeta vineyard - to match the Foie.

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What then followed was the main course: crispy fried meagre on a light red wine risotto with samphire greens, mini corn, and citrus fruits; as well as a venison rump with a juniper cinnamon crust on black root vegetable cream with fried chanterelles and brussels sprouts. Our conclusion: excellent and obviously far and beyond the good traditional kitchen that I had expected when I entered the restaurant.

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We finished with a cheese platter and the delectable signature chocolate cake "Drei Stuben" with sour cream icecream and amaretto cherries. And again, we were offered a suitable accompaniment: A Shizuku sake aged in wooden barrels, slightly sweet and spicy with a hint of forest, earth, caramel, combined with the slightly bitter note of cocoa.

Furthermore, Thomas Schärer’s excellent service this evening is worth mentioning. In Zurich it is rare to find such service that is entertaining, charming, as well competent. Another good reason to visit the restaurant again soon. And not only until summer, when the secluded garden is open, which will also be a promising tip.