La Tartina Pop-up Mozzarella Bar

In a distinctly feel-good atmosphere, the pop-up La Tartina once again invites you to enjoy refined mozzarella dishes, delicious cichetti and classic pasta, unusually combined with fresh products from Italy.

Here on the premises of Club Bagatelle in Langstrasse, the extremely cordial team around South Tyrolean Michael Grones serves a sophisticatedly composed menu from Monday to Thursday, as well as selected drinks and cocktails at the long bar. At the weekend, it's the club's turn again with its booming basses.

Wooden tables and chairs, dim lighting, heavy oriental carpets, lots of green plants and devotional objects conjure up a vintage ambience, while the windows facing the street, covered with dark privacy film, create a cosy, protected aura. Excited about the different types of mozzarella, we choose the 'Tasting Menu' because here everything can be combined in the sharing concept in either a 3- or 4-course menu.

The 'Charcuterie Board' with Italian salami, a selection of cheeses and the finest olives comes to the table just as perfectly arranged as the 'Liquid Caprese'. Here, only the delicately buttery burrata, the stracciatella, sits enthroned in a fruity tomato sauce; in combination with pesto and basil, this ensures pure enjoyment. Thick, freshly toasted bread slices help soak up the delicious sauce to the rest.

The fish carpaccio, drizzled with olive oil and marinated in grapefruit juice for a deliciously fruity and tart note, comes across as fresh. The delicate burrata from Apulia with Sicilian blood orange, dressed with caramelised Aceto Balsamico dressing and sprinkled with crunchy pistachio nuts, tastes just as fruity-sweet and tangy at the same time. An absolute favourite dish for its lightness and sophistication.

The incredibly tender braised beef short rib, served with a finely aromatic jus and buttery, melting mashed potatoes, perfectly matches the still cool temperatures outside. The meat almost melts at the first bite - no wonder, since according to Michael Grones, it was allowed to braise for more than eight hours in the sous-vide process and with lots of vegetables, thus achieving tasty tenderness.

The desserts are a crowning finale. Whether a gelato, affogato or a creamy cheesecake with passion fruit and dark chocolate, the final act fits.

La Tartina is still open until the end of May, although it's better to book in advance, so coveted are the Italian delicacies of the mozzarella bar.

Maria Meiners

Autorin Zürich