Brasserie Freilager The hotspot in the up-and-coming district

Saturday evening, the brasserie fills up unhurriedly. We are not the first, guests in splendid conversation already sit at the generously spaced tables. The low lighting reveals a dimly lit atmosphere, in accordance with my taste. Although we’re on an official creme guide mission here, we’ve also cause to celebrate. My wife and I have been together for 39 years. The date fits.

Let us briefly touch on the interior, which my wife comments with delight. In particular, the Horgenglarus chairs, which did it for her. In fact, you do actually sit quite comfortably. The ambiance is a cool, timeless, inspired by the seventies style, that receives a colorful mixed crowd. Enough, the author is, after all, not an interior designer.

We are still enjoying the sparkling aperitif in the spacious bar, also a feast for the eyes, as our gaze falls on a long-lived La Cornue gas burner, such a Rolls Royce we would’ve also gladly had. Then a look at the well-conceived kitchen: "State of the Art". Here no cost was spared nor hesitated. Matthias Widmer and his outstanding team conjure up a storm.

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Of course I know them all, because they have been well-known for some time in the young wild gastroscene. Nico Mäder, 39 (Blaue Ente, Bärengasse, Atelier), Marco Pero, 36 (Drei Stuben, Krokodil, Little Italy), Patrick Bruderer, 37 (who pulls the administrative strings of all enterprises), and almost completely in the background, Dieter Meier, timeless. They’ve all got quite a record and their reputation precedes them. A good one at that.

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The reason why one visits a restaurant is food and drink. Here, too, we expect palatable delights and stomach pleasers. We are not disappointed. While my wife purposefully chooses her meal, I leave it to the charming service (can I say that?), because I love surprises. Delicious and easy it must be. In the meantime, unnoticeably, the brasserie has filled up and we can still maintain normal conversation. Splendid!

The offer on the menu is pleasantly short, with each dish sounding mouth-watering. My companion decides on the already legendary "Ricotta spinach ravioli" as an appetizer, then the "Roastbeef Dieter Meier".

My order (with a little help): "Marktgasse-Glas" (potato foam, spinach, egg, and autumn truffle). After the first bite, I am simply delighted and an enthusiastic moan draws all eyes on us. Sorry, but what was happening to my taste buds was simply divine. And during this course I seemingly had a constant grin on my face. Can this be topped? Apparently so.

Main course: "Wollschwein Hoch2", Mangalica pork chops and leg with sautéed root vegetables and potato and Jerusalem artichoke puree. Wow!! The tender braised meat had already melted on the fork, the chops on the bone succulent. The fact that I could savour the accompanying potatoes made it even better. The "Hell of a Meal" was rounded off with a Spanish "Yecla", which was served open by the glass. Also an offer from Meier’s. The dessert - green tea crème brulée - my wife had to enjoy (except for a morsel), because not only was I satiated, but happily so.

Imagine living in New York, Manhattan. Then Altstetten would be the Brooklyn of Zurich. The ride there is not only chic, but also worthwhile.

Helmi Sigg

Kolumnist Zürich