Wildling Simply good: regional tapas and wild broths in the 8th district

We are welcomed with crispy potato focaccia with butter, pickled vegetables and a little glass of homemade Bloody Mary. These little appetisers already show very nicely what Wildling is all about: old cultural techniques such as fermentation and the use of leftovers, respectful treatment of people and nature, love of good food and the joy of culinary experimentation.

The potato peelings left over from making the focaccia are roasted, crumbled and then whipped with the butter (So good! I would spoon it straight if it wasn't butter.) Even the liquid left in the used-up kimchi jar is not discarded but mixed into the Bloody Mary as a spicy addition. And the vegetables for all these delicacies come from small farms in the Vienna area that work exclusively with seed-proof seeds.

Wildling was founded by three friends who had been dreaming of their own restaurant for a long time and now - lockdown or not - didn't want to wait any longer. "Regionality and seasonality are not marketing for us, but the standard we don't want to work without," says manager Manuel Künz. Wilding is one of those restaurants where people are happy to ask questions and the service patiently informs about the production and origin of the dishes.

How exactly the three variations of celery were prepared. Where the mushrooms for the vegan Szeged goulash come from (from the Viennese mushroom brothers who grow their mushrooms in the cellar of an old building). Why they chose the heart cone for the meat dish, a second cut that rarely ends up on the plate? The reason: it has a firmer structure than the often preferred fillet pieces - "a little something to chew on", as Manuel says with a wink.

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In terms of taste, the meat is in no way inferior to fillet: Especially when it is served, as here, with wild broccoli and coffee jus, for which - keyword leftovers - the old coffee grounds were used. But that's not all: bar manager Stefan Stefanescu also uses it for his coffee kombucha, which he prepares himself in the restaurant's basement, as he does with almost all of his drinks.

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Instead of industrially produced goods, there are homemade lemonades, tonics, kefir and kombucha. The drinks menu is extensive and surprising: in addition to the aforementioned Kimchi-Bloody-Mary, there is, among other things, carrot marigold spritzer and an Old Fashioned with Ferment plum. 

A visit to Wilding is also recommended for those who simply fancy a good drink - if you get hungry, just order a few snacks: All dishes come in tapas size. As I suffer from chronic indecision, I love these concepts: Order whatever you feel like, put it in the middle, share and discuss what tastes best. 

Little by little, our table fills up with more and more bowls: Carrots with kale and pumpkin seed mayo, chilli cauliflower on creamed cabbage and fermented radish, baked Emmental cheese and - my favourite - spicy sautéed cabbage sprouts with hazelnuts and mustard caviar. This is closely followed by the roast potatoes, accompanied by frothy hollandaise dressed with black garlic.

The vegetable focus is no coincidence: in keeping with the sustainability ethos, the selection of vegan and vegetarian bites is extensive, with meat and fish playing a (successful) supporting role. These are simple dishes based on Austrian classics, which become flavourful highlights thanks to precision craftsmanship and creative tricks.

Finally, there are baked apples filled with nuts - winter comfort food - and curd cheese pancakes with rhubarb compote - "the first of the season, we secured it right away!" Spring is knocking, and chef Wernher Schörkmayr is already working on asparagus and wild garlic creations in the kitchen. Some of the previous winter menu may stay: As a passionate "Krautfleckerl lobbyist", Manuel has campaigned for the pasta dish to be on the menu all year round. 

Despite the high sustainability standards, regionality and seasonal ingredients, the Wildling is intended to be a place for uninhibited enjoyment and joie de vivre. There will also always be events - from fermentation workshops to beer & food pairing to art, jazz, and cabaret. A wild mix that's fun to watch.