Tian Modern Vegetarian Delights at Viktualienmarkt

Vegetarian, and even vegan, cuisine is only good for its aesthetic; a truly good meal can only be had with a proper serving of meat, or at least some fish, right? Anyone who takes the time to visit Restaurant Tian will experience the lack of truth to that statement firsthand.

At the Viktualienmarkt, Chef de cuisine Christoph Mezger demonstrates just exactly which incredible, sometimes surprising palate compositions can be whipped up using "only" vegetables, fruits, seasoning, and a wheat or milk product or two.

The team at Tian have pocketed a commendable 13 Gault Millau points with their fine gourmet creations. Even before we test these ourselves, enchanting aromas waft from the open kitchen in the back, pulling us in for our visit.

The interior is kept in tasteful, serene colours and the nature theme is reflected in details such as the beautifully treated tree root with bowls for the Fleur de Sel, olive oil, and mushroom paste that accompany the bread.

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It is clear to us from the moment we’re greeted to the extremely diligent hospitality and even the farewell (as we’re some of the last guests to leave Tian) that not only the dishes, but also the service led by restaurant manager Marco Stevanato is noteworthy.

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That’s always important to us. Even the best food loses its flavour when served with a blasé countenance. But at Tian, even the amuse-bouche, a tart creation of asparagus cream, enveloped in paper-thin zucchini and melon, is brought to us with a contagious smile.

The next series of "Hummus/Coriander/Cauliflower/Beetroot" turns out to be a finely layered parsley biscuit with hummus creme and a layer of parsley jelly, along with crisp baked cauliflower florets and firm cooked beetroot. We are completely in love, not just with the variety of flavours, but the consistencies on the artistically arranged plate.

For our second course we enjoy fennel in three ways. A fresh hint of orange and yuzu fruit, which we hadn’t encountered before, round it off perfectly.

The focus of the main course was green and white asparagus and we’ve never enjoyed the seasonal vegetable more, especially the lighter variety. The combination of fresh sorrel, velvety beans, and morel leave us swooning.

We transition to dessert with a refreshing cucumber sorbet with frozen coconut yogurt. And for the grand finale, a chocolate sorbet with violet meringue, woodruff, and fresh strawberries, along with delicately shaved mushrooms and a mushroom creme.

An unusual combination? Yes, and unusually delicious to boot! The wines served with each course were unusually well balanced. We made some exciting discoveries, including a particularly fine wine from the unconventional winegrower "Bret Brothers" from the Burgund region.