Great Stuff
Tantris DNA French star cuisine with tradition
Opening Times
Friday to Monday: noon - 3.00 pm and 6.30 pm - midnight
Address
Tantris DNA
Johann-Fichte-Straße 7
80805 Munich-Schwabing
.How to get there
Contact
When a Munich institution like the legendary Tantris reopens in 2021 with two different restaurants under the Maison Culinaire umbrella brand after a renovation phase and a change of chef, expectations are correspondingly high. After all, Michelin-starred chefs like Hans Haas and Eckart Witzigmann topped Germany's Michelin rankings for decades and were considered pioneers of classic French cuisine in southern Germany.
Now there are two new masters of their trade behind the stove in the modernised house. The young German-Canadian Benjamin Chmura devotes himself to refined multi-course menus in the front part of Tantris. At the same time, French-born Virginie Protat shines as culinary chef of Tantris DNA in the rear separée with a variety of à la carte dishes.
The Paul Bocuse Institute graduate serves classic French dishes from five decades of Tantris. A timeless cuisine focused on the best seasonal products that inspire.
The menu alone, in simple black with engraved text in gold - a poetic and beautiful summary of what characterises Tantris - is as promising as the almost twelve different dishes on it, appropriately labelled "pour le Plaisir", "hors d'œuvres" or "plats principaux".
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As an amuse-gueule, there are finger-licking appetisers such as croquette with cream cheese curry filling and traditional onion soup with a parmesan puff pastry topping - delicious! This is accompanied by bread from the in-house bakery, served in a basket with artfully folded napkins so that it resembles a pretty little nest.
We continue to sample the menu, from the fresh oysters and duck liver to the grilled scallops, the pike dumpling mousse with crayfish and a wonderfully tender fillet of beef. Everything is coherent, everything a gustatory delight.
For the new concept of the DNA restaurant, the separate part of the Tantris, which used to be exclusively available for events, has been redesigned. Black velvet sofas and red chairs pick up the exquisite colour scheme of the house, while stone sculptures on the ceiling, the view of the seated inner courtyard and a light sign on the wall give the whole thing the charm of a French bistro.
You will therefore look in vain for white tablecloths. Instead, the first-class dishes, both in craftsmanship and taste, are served on simple plates and placed on polished round marble tables.
The service around restaurant manager and DNA head sommelier Mathieu Mermelstein is as knowledgeable as it is cordial and focuses on a private atmosphere and humorous conversations.
And as expected, the end of the meal is a highlight: The dessert trolley with retro charm - an experience in itself! - Instead of minimal portions, there are five different French desserts from the in-house patisserie, such as apple tart or a chocolate mousse.
Unfortunately, even the cheese, which we have to refuse for satiety reasons, is presented in style on such a serving trolley. All this makes the Tantris DNA a place that invites you to linger and that you don't want to leave.
