Monday to Thursday 12-23 h
Friday + Saturday 12-0 h
Sunday 12-23 h
Schwarzreiter Restaurant
Maximilianstr. 17
im Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten Kempinski
80539 Munich-Altstadt
.How to get there
Residing permanently in beautiful luxury hotels is an appealing thought. Even more so if they are located in your own city. After all, an exquisite interior would await you in familiar surroundings, excellent service and, last but not least, a fantastic culinary offer - around the clock!
One hotel where you could spend such a wonderful time would be the five-star Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten Kempinski on the magnificent Maximilianstraße. It houses two different restaurants for varied and good dining.
The Schwarzreiter Tagesbar, for example, offers "Young Bavarian Cuisine" at lunchtime and in the evening in a chic bistro atmosphere, with Bavarian-modern dishes à la carte, while the fine-dining venue next door, the Schwarzreiter Restaurant, serves a multi-course menu at star level three evenings a week.
Since the beginning of 2023, the young Munich chef Franz-Josef Unterlechner has been responsible for both gourmet venues and scores with refined dishes that reflect the values of the hotel: Tradition, indulgence and elegance.
In the fine-dining restaurant, for example, the menu of regional dishes changes every six to eight weeks and delights the palate with delicate combinations such as a delicious duet of lamb shoulder - once as ravioli, once plain with Provençal-style artichokes (à la barigoule) and basil. Or a sweet and tart dessert of rhubarb, raspberries, sour cream, white chocolate and ginger.
You can choose between four, five and six courses (145 to 185 euros) at the Schwarzreiter Restaurant. Franz-Josef Unterlechner learned his trade at the Überfahrt restaurant on Tegernsee and at the Bachmair Weissach Resort and Spa. Most recently, as Chef de Cuisine, he headed the kitchen of the Munich fish speciality restaurant Atlantik.
It is precisely one of these aquatic animals that is the restaurant's signature dish and also its namesake: the Bavarian char from the Königssee, the so-called Schwarzreiter.
Even King Maximilian II, who built the Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten Kempinski in the mid-19th century, was a great fan of the taste of the Schwarzreiter, and to this day, there are culinary and visual references to the fish. For example, the tables in the restaurant are adorned with miniature figures of the animal from the exclusive porcelain manufacturer Nymphenburg.
And the ambience is also highly stylish and classic: Chandeliers, gold elements and many mirrors give the guest the feeling of sitting in a stateroom of Versailles Palace and not in Munich's old town.
Also appealing is the wine recommendation for the regional, honest cuisine by Franz-Josef Unterlechner. Sommelière Nina Geschka charmingly and competently serves matching wines for each course, preferably from Germany, Austria and Italy.
Our verdict: Pure taste, exciting visuals, the best ingredients, and excellent service soon point to the return of a star from the Michelin Guide, which Franz-Josef Unterlechner's predecessors had already achieved.