Cafes
EssZimmer by Käfer The Michelin Star Restaurant in BMW Welt
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Esszimmer by Käfer
Am Olympiapark 1
BMW Welt
80809 Munich-Milbertshofen
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"Really? You've lived in München for so long and haven't checked out BMW Welt?" Frank Glüer, Sommelier of the Year 2016 and Maître of gourmet restaurant EssZimmer, asks me incredulously during our first visit last weekend.
I have to admit: no. Motor vehicles are, for me, the means to an end, but not — as for the approximately 2.5 million annual visitors — necessarily a reason to trek to the other end of the city only to marvel at their bodywork.
Excellent food is a different story. I was very excited at the opportunity to test Bobby Bräuer's famous domain for Creme Guides. And a little curious, admittedly, to see what dining at a Michelin star restaurant in the middle of an automobile museum is like…
Cold? Impersonal, surrounded by glass and steel furniture? Negative. The grandios EssZimmer, found on the third floor of BMW Welt, lives up to its name. Plenty of wood, fluffy carpets, and a fireplace build an extremely homy atmosphere and cosy contrast to the other floors of the building.
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Another lovely detail surprises us at our table: the window built into the wall behind us doesn't reveal a view of the ground floor showroom, but rather of the kitchen! We're constantly sneaking peaks at the diligent work going on in there.
The first work of tasty art soon arrives from backstage: a seasonal greeting with three decadent variations of asparagus. The homemade bread that rounds it off comes fresh from the oven and, in combination with spiced crispy bread, blossom butter, and pine nut-ricotta creme, is much more than just an ornamental accessory.
Shortly thereafter the still life before us is replenished by a hearty mini carrot cake, crowned with cumin and ice cream with a sharp touch of ginger. The firework display of aromas paves the way for the 'actual' menu: saddle of pasture ox accompanied by imperial caviar, egg yolk, and sardines kick things off.
A frothy bisque with stone crayfish and smoked eel follows. As a regional touch, a tiny 'Vinschgerl', a specialty bread roll, sits on the edge of the plate with a light cheese spread. Tilapia from Vendée with a refreshing arrangement of citrus fruits, peas, and lemon pepper offer a transition to an Asian-inspired variation of poulet noir.
Frank Glüer and his team serve a perfectly paired wine with each course, amongst them a number of new discoveries, such as the French 2014 Scheurebe. The dessert, chocolate from Madagascar garnished with a light sour cream and a touch of hazelnut, is presented accompanied by a Hungarian Tokaji Aszú.
As we finally fall into the back of a limousine while a friendly chauffeur drives us home— a service included with each menu at EssZimmer— I can no longer deny the plausible advantage of combining a gourmet restaurant and automobile experience…
Bobby Bräuer's artful cooking, the culinary world of Käfer’s delicatessen, and the public attraction of BMW Welt: it's a daring combination of München superlatives— but certainly a successful one!
