Witwenball Where the Wild Wines Are

Just to clear it up right away: the name Witwenball, which translates to 'widow's ball', pays tribute to the former dance hall that was situated on this very same spot for 20 years. However, inside the bar on Weidenallee 20 you will find anything but grief. Just take a look at the extensive wine list and see for yourself. Aside from the 30 different wines by the glass, we counted 120 bottled wines available for off-trade sale starting at 5 pm.

With just one look, you'll see that that sommelier and patron Axel Bode has a thing for a young generation of wine growers from prominent wine areas around the Mosel, Rheingau, Rheinhessen and over the Nahe towards palatinate, Baden and Württemberg. Several young vine-growers and vinyards such as Katharina Wechsler, Christian Bamberger, Odinstal, Kai Schätzel, Ankermühle oder Christian Tschida have been able to present their goods at Witwenball's wine events.

And yet, excellent wine is not all this restaurant is about: chef de cuisine Jan Schlüter and his team are putting up a daily menu made up of fresh and seasonal ingredients. And I sure like my choice: first, goat cheese au gratin with pumpernickel and honey, served with mirabelle-ginger-chutney and wild herbs. Second comes a branzini, fried in whole, with Canarian potatos, mojo verde and lemony lettuce. Alongside: Grüner Veltliner by Urban Stagard from the Kremstal.

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The interior is yet another gem, reminiscing of the 1920s with designs by architect Giorgio Gullotta such as the benches dressed in petrol-green velvet and the prominent marble counter. I will definitely come back on a Sunday after 5 pm, to enjoy a true Wiener veal schnitzel with dill-cucumber salad and sauté potatos – and a cool beer to make the occasion perfect!

Kathrin Willhöft

Guest Author Hamburg