daily from 10.00
kitchen until 22.00
Wasserschloss
Dienerreihe 4
20457 Hamburg-Speicherstadt
.How to get there
It had already gone dark outside, we were quickly stepping through Hamburg’s Speicherstadt. On Poggenmühlen-Bridge we had finally arrived at the scene - the beautiful view of the so called Water Castle. With a composition of spotlights and torches, the building and its little clock tower take you back to the days of yore. Built around 1905 the castle originally served as shelter and workshop for the winch wards. Through a grand wooden door we entered the lounge were people were sitting on having snacks, a glass of wine or a cup of tea.
At the restaurant you can choose to sit in the tea room, in the grand salon on the first floor or in the dining hall. We chose the latter one. Once the scene of hard work, we were now sitting at rustic dinner tables of wood and were quickly served a Tea-Royal. The aperitif is a concentrated fruit tea completed with a hint of sparkling wine - you absolutely have to try it!
One look at the menu proves: tea has found its way into this kitchen. Irina Berggruen, who’s already worked for Haerlin, Goldfisch, Wattkorn and Cornelia Poletto, is now re-interpreting traditional Hanseatic cuisine and does so with a twist of tea.
Considering the exhaustingly good selection of appetizers, it was too hard to choose so we asked the chef to take over - we ordered a variety of appetizers for two and were excited for what would follow. We were surprised with Green Tea-Spice-Bruschetta, Tarry-Lapsang-Souchong Smoked Tea-basted salmon, roast beef and buffalo mozzarella. Our favourites were the Ginger-Carrot-Coconut-Soup, served in a beautiful espresso cup and a truly sensational lobscouse with beetroot.
We felt ready for a night of haute cuisine perfected with tea and were nervously awaiting the main course. We got black halibut with dried tomatoes, capers and artichokes, and pigling on savoy cabbage and dumplings with pickled plums. Both dishes are seasoned and cooked to perfection and the flavors are fused so perfectly, the plates leave our table almost shiny clean. Happy and satisfied we only managed to share a dessert at last: prune crumble with hazelnut ice cream.
Finally, we treated ourselves to an espresso instead of the expected cup of tea and amidst the sand-blasted stone walls, the vintage slabs and the industrial lamps, we felt like we were somewhere on a film set. But everything is real and authentic, just like the castle’s kitchen: full of new ideas, yet no grandstanding. And even though tea is involved in many dishes, it’s always subtle and surprisingly good. We’re already excited for our next visit!