Tuesday to Saturday: 5:30pm - midnight
(Kitchen until 10:00pm)
Legler's Modern Bistro
Hohenesch 55
22765 Hamburg-Altona
.How to get there
Looking for top-class bistro cuisine? With refined yet down-to-earth dishes? With professional, warm-hearted and humorous service and wine accompaniment? In a lovingly and clearly furnished place where you immediately feel comfortable and welcome?
Enough questions on our part. We're unpacking: Direct your steps to Ottensen to Legler's Modern Bistro, a small and fine eatery with 24 seats. The terrace in the secluded cobblestone backyard, which is in the planning stage, will offer guests even more seats in the coming summer months.
Before opening his restaurant, Max Legler cooked his way through the kitchens of Le Canard, the Witwenball, Landhaus Scherrer and the Töpferhaus in Duvenstedt, among others. Now he stands in his own kitchen and conjures balanced dishes with a great deal of flair and an eye for details and nuances.
His cooking roots lie in French cuisine, plus Asian and sometimes Persian influences. Legler himself says he cooks whatever he feels like. When time permits, he also serves his dishes to the guests himself. A chef who is in touch with his customers and the ground.
On this evening, we have the distinct pleasure of tasting our way through the small, fine menu. But first, an aperitif. We enjoy a fruity, invigorating Anniversary Fizz made from Aperol, passion fruit, grapefruit, gin and soda and an Old Cuban made from rum, lime, bitters, sugar and Saumur, which is a fresh, juicy sparkling wine that typically consists mainly of Chenin Blanc. The drinks invigorate and tantalise the palate and the thinking organ.
The anticipation for the first dish builds. We start with stracciata with fava beans, wild broccoli on rhubarb vinaigrette and beef tartare with mushrooms "escabeche", garden herbs, croutons and dyke cheese.
The vegetables are crunchy and refreshing. The vinaigrette is fruity and stimulating. Mushrooms, herbs, croutons, and beef tartare successfully combine on the plate and taste sensational. A great start.
The next course is roasted Baltic turbot fillet with grilled green asparagus, mashed potatoes and saffron-shellfish ragout. Fish and mussels couldn't taste fresher. Legler's sources fish and seafood from Frisch Gefischt, which makes no compromises regarding seasonality, quality, freshness and sustainability. We can taste that. However, the vegetables are in no way inferior. The asparagus tastes like it's fresh from the field, and the mashed potatoes and ragout are grounding and delicious.
In the next round, Max Legler presents us with a vegan main course. Garden lettuce with sweet potato puree, celery chips and warm vadouvan marinade. It sounds and tastes excellent. The puree is nourishingly full-bodied and creamy, with crispy chips and crunchy lettuce, and the marinade is another kitchen poem.
Jörg provides us with the right wines and drinks throughout the evening. We let the experienced restaurateur choose from the wine list for us, and he is spot on. Among others, with a Pinot Blanc Kalkbödele from the Mathis brothers. We taste ripe pears, apple notes, honeydew melon, and fine yeast melts. The fine acid structure rounds off the Pinot Blanc ideally. Or a Sauvignon Blanc from Burgenland by Weingut Gesellmann, which scores with delicate gooseberry notes and high minerality.
For dessert, Max serves us a chocolate-orange blossom tart with vanilla ice cream - delicately melting, crumbly, invigoratingly cool. A delicious culinary finale to this evening.
We would like to thank Max for the excellent meal. To Jörg for the expert, perfectly tailored wine accompaniment and the delicious drinks. We thank both of them for their heartfelt hospitality. After our visit, we stroll through the narrow streets of Ottensen and look forward to seeing you again at Legler's Modern Bistro.