Carls Brasserie Savoir Vivre along the Elbe River

While standing in front of the impressively big Elbe Philharmonic Hall, surrounded by ultra-modern harbour city’s avant-garde architecture, Europe’s biggest urban construction project still felt somewhat inanimate and cold. But then we set foot in Carls Brasserie and plunged into the welcoming charm of a French brasserie - what a difference! We were greeted warmly by patron Francesco Potenza himself.

Leading up to our table, we passed by eggplant leather armchairs, comfortable booths, tiled pictures and poster-covered columns. And then we arrived: a place right by the window front with a breathtaking panoramic view over the river. If it weren’t for the intriguing menu, we would’ve stared out all night to watch cruise ships come and leave, and observe the goings-on of the harbour.

On said menu, you’ll find northern German cuisine with a French twist. As our first courses, we went with a mildly smoked salmon on cucumber jelly, foamed potato and a relish of apple and horseradish, as well as beef tartar ‘Classique’. The fish was draped so beautifully, I almost didn’t touch it. Almost. Luckily I did end up touching it, because it was pure joy, fresh and seasoned to perfection! And the same goes for the tartar - delicate as can be and delicious. Now that got us going. We were nervously awaiting our main courses, glancing over through the big kitchen window with great expectations.

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My friend had Ravioloni with a filling of buffalo ricotta, served on green asparagus and lemon confit. I went for a juicy filet of Atlantic cod, served with a mouth-watering lobster-and-curry espuma and caramelized root vegetables. The grand finale, involving a crème brûlée of unsurpassable taste, completely fades out the terrific view.

Chef de cuisine Michel Rinkert has worked at star restaurants Pavillon Ledoyen, Le Jardin du Royal Monceau and Maxim’s in Paris. He knows his way around French classics and prepares them with a level of sophistication that will wow anyone. The results are a feast for the eyes and the palate, and will make an unforgettable night of your dinner at Carls Brasserie.