Brücke Once Upon A Time In Eppendorf

For 28 years now, there's no way around Branko Goricki's Brücke restaurant – named after the facing railway bridge that hosts yet another Hamburg institution taking place on tuesdays and wednesdays right beneath it: the famous Isemarkt.

On these days, the daily business starts earlier than usual at Brücke: when market visitors rendezvous with regulars and indulge in classics such as homemade meatballs, veal strips with mushrooms and spaetzle or a bowl of clear soup with Swabian pockets – on sunny days, the best spot is outside on one of their plain wooden benches.

A lady with a pair of dark sunglasses does it just that way and tells us, while passing us by, that she's been a customer here since the first moment. And we believe her at once, just seeing how she waves from her favorite little nook outside.

It's the sheer timelessness of the interior, the service, the kitchen that the guests have loved for over two decades now: from the Art Déco lamps that have only gotten more beautiful with time, to courteous waiters that really know their work and a constant high standard in the quality of their cuisine.

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Speaking of – we were able to get a good taste of that with the appetizers: a soup of asparagus with chervil and cress, paired with a glass of wonderful Porzelt pinot blanc, poured traditionally from the magnum.

The light entrée of sautéed scampi, squid and green asparagus in a shellfish stock, as well as a baby leaf salad with buffalo mozzarella picks it up just there. Delicious!

After this wonderful evening we figured out what's different about Brücke: it's that special charm that you usually find in French bistros or Italian trattorias – only this is the middle of Eppendorf!

Kathrin Willhöft

Guest Author Hamburg