Sorrel Young and contemporary in Neukölln

Sorrel is a meadow herb often overlooked in this country. It contains a lot of vitamin C and was already used in ancient times to relieve the stomach after a sumptuous meal. Nowadays, it is known mainly in the Hessian region as an ingredient of the Frankfurt Green Sauce. 

In the meantime however, not only that fine meadow herb is again increasingly used in the kitchens of the capital. It is a logical consequence that sooner or later it also found its way into naming. In the north of Neukölln, for example, Sorrel already indicates what the culinary scene is like here: local. 

It's clean in Sorrel, oak and light wood slats dominate the furnishings, large-format paintings by Philipp Pusch can currently be admired and the walls are only partially plastered - we're in Neukölln after all. 

The chefs this evening are Nick and Paul and even before we order, we get a little insight into the kitchen and the tasting of the latest dish on the menu on the rather long, winding path to the locale. The pickled and lightly flambéed pumpkin with cream cheese and nuts is then promptly recommended to us by the charming English-speaking service.

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The combination of autumnal pumpkin and delicately acidic labneh is sweet, sour and savory. Everything comes together here, the shapes blur which we did like quite a bit, as well as the fact that no goat cheese is served with the pumpkin.

The Sorrel sees itself primarily as a brunch and lunch spot, only on Thursdays and Fridays does the space mutate into a natural wine bar (but there are also "normal" organic wines). Contemporary cuisine with local products is served here, the focus is on good ingredients, the meat comes from Kumpel and Keule, the fish from Fish Klub.

At Sorrel, there's an obvious emphasis on high-quality products, sourced from small growers and producers, and a correspondingly excellent finish. The seasonally changing menu is a testament to modern cuisine with a lot of finesse and a great interplay of flavors and textures, both during the day and in the evening. 

The fennel salad with pickled apricot, almonds and young parmesan is wonderfully crisp and delicious, even convincing our fennel-averse companion. This evening, however, we were blown away by the braised beef sragú, reminiscent of goulash, with Parmesan and a polenta to die for - although we are usually no big polenta fans.

What a praise to the kitchen when less popular preparations suddenly become favorites. Without question, we must return as soon as possible to try the brunch!

Ronja C. Kolls

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