Joynes Kitchen Modern French Cuisine in Charlottenburg

In autumn of last year, Auckland native Anthony Joynes, who’s cooked around the world, and his wife Lucia Joynes made their dream of owning their own restaurant a reality. Not in one of the hip gastro-districts, but in old West Berlin.

A red marquis sets the restaurant on Mommsenstr. apart. Inside, the spruced up cosiness of Berlin pubs meets the flair of the French brasserie. Gold-rimmed plates and white cloth serviettes provide upscale- but not uppity- hospitality.

Four appetisers, five mains, and three desserts make for a manageable selection that’s still difficult to choose from. Everything sounds promising. Tip: order the five-course menu, preferably with wine pairings, and give yourself over to the culinary French journey.

Even that which on the menu may make you pause at first, turns out to be a rectification of once unloved dishes. Like the rabbit terrine. Terrines were a must in grandma’s kitchen, as in fine dining of times past. Lots of gelatine, less meat and vegetables, but easy to prepare. What’s special about Joynes’? He turns around the ingredient ratios to make a modern outing of the rabbit, green olives, lemon, and leek.

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While the main dish of duck two ways with chanterelles, peas, green asparagus, and radishes feels very autumn-like with its simple heartiness, the spring flatfish with fennel, orange, green beans, and lemon mashed potato is a fine transition from spring to summer.

Lucia Joynes is a trained pâtissière and reveals that she had never had anything to do with wines before. Looking at the selection, it’s unbelievable. With a bottle selection of 25 different wines, including sparkling wines, she proves her fine taste for drinking pleasure.

Constanze Hallensleben

Founder Creme Guides