Restaurant Faelt Björn Swanson's Baby in the Akazienkiez

That's something you first have to achieve: In October of last year, Björn Swanson, who is experienced in gourmet cuisine and was most recently head chef at Golvet, opened his first restaurant. October 2020 - wasn't there something? That's right, a short time later the restaurant had to close again, and it was to last a whole seven months. And yet the faelt restaurant in Schöneberg's Akazienkiez was immediately awarded a coveted star by the Michelin Guide.

Advance praise, one might rumor. Well, we were taught better than that. The very first thing that catches the eye on this balmy summer evening of the first week of opening is the Nordic reserved table. There are no cards (you can call them up digitally), but you don't need them either: there are nine courses to choose from. No more and no less. "But they are designed in such a way that you can manage them," assures us sommelière Sharin Polte, who last worked at Horvath and will subsequently be noticed for her quality as a hostess and her knack for an extremely coherent selection of drinks. Drinks, mind you, not wine.

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First, however, it begins quite classically with a glass of champagne. Spontaneously fermented on natural yeast from the French organic Larmandier-Bernier estate. This is rare, as there is some gamble involved in spontaneous fermentation. Delicate, delicate and just the thing on a balmy summer evening, it thus pairs beautifully with the refreshing sorrel yogurt ice cream with green tomato that challenges our tongues with sweet, salty and sour components. The taste of green runs through one's mind and we are hooked for all that may come.

And that's Chef Björn Swanson himself with the next course: a salmon trout pickled with milkmaid and whey, Berlin miso, and cucumber-dill broth. The delicate texture of the fish is reminiscent of sashimi, accompanied by a glass of the elegant Auxerrois from Lake Constance, which underscores the delicacy of the whole.

Only to have that delicacy torn down again in the next course. Björn's "third baby" follows: Smokey Swan, his own smoked beer in cooperation with the Berlin Brewdog brewery. Woody, caramel, very special, its smokiness is almost reminiscent of ham. Not a beer for life, but all the more fun for this course with Berlin pancakes and a braised onion butter whose texture is reminiscent of paté. We dig in, because oohja, this is finger-licking good, especially in combination with this beer, and our absolute highlight of the evening. Who would have thought, a bread course thus.

Down-to-earth, as Björn says, it continues with pasta salad from Frigola Sarda and first peas, plus "horny stuff" from the bottle of natural wine pioneer Ziereisen. Björn ladles the verbena-infused Beurre Blanc directly from the pot onto our plates. This attention to the guest runs through the evening. Often one appears with kitchen utensils directly at the table.

It seems uncomplicated, a bit like at mom's house, and that is basically very pleasing. Although the impression arises that the processes in the open kitchen get a bit bogged down now and then, because we wait a bit long for refreshment before the main course, a primeval carrot salad with whey granita, or the main course itself. After seven months of forced break, however, this is forgiven.

What follows is also a real stunner, because behind the sandwich with sauce Foyot hides in addition a short flamed Müritzzander. This is sourced directly from the Müritz fishermen, as Björn reports, while he spoons a pike perch bone jus onto our plates, which is really in no way inferior to a strong veal jus. In addition buttery-crisp Grissini, Hollandaise with tarragon, this main course as high point of the menu has correctly Schmackes; and again we would like to lick ourselves the fingers.

Afterwards, a wonderful Rieslingspätlese from Fritz Haag tastes just wonderful with the classic cheese course, a goat cheese from Affineur Philippe with cranberry and Danish waffle. By the way, all of the carefully selected wine items in the faelt can be ordered by the glass. A welcome change among the capital's often huge wine lists. And so is the teasecco made from green tea and fruit juice that we are served with the raspberry-rhubarb ice cream. An elegant sidetrack to the ice cream at the beginning of the evening, which gave us some pleasures. Who spoke of laurels again?

Translated by Alexander Brandes

Ronja C. Kolls

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