Lesendro Grilled Fish Meets Wilhelmian Ambience

His friends called it gutsy, and so do we. Montenegrin Vladimir Kosic spent months gingerly renovating an over one hundred years old restaurant in Wilmersdorf in order to open a branch of his successful fish restaurant Lesendro at Kollwitzplatz. The interior survived two wars and an innumerable change of tenants largely in its original condition, and now shines with new lustre. Vintage, but with the heaviness so popular in its time. Dimly lit Wilhelmian meets fresh fish and a saint full of joie de vivre.

During the summer months, the terrace leading to the tranquil Bruchsaler str. offers seating for around twenty people out in the open. Any of the small tables underneath umbrellas are a wonderful place to pass the time with grilled fish and seafood. One thing is for certain: Vladimir Kosic knows what he is doing and even here in Wilmersdorf serves perfectly prepared fish and seafood of all kinds.

The former fisher also reeled in a number of exquisite grapes for the wine card, such as the "Lugana Pievecroce" from vineyard Costaripa in Venice, which we would've loved to take home after having it accompany us throughout the evening. Born in Fürth and raised in Croatia since the age of five, our server has only been back in Germany for ten days and impresses us with his excellent German and very accomplished service.

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After crispy baguette with small aromatic olives, fruity olive oil, and balsamic vinaigrette, our fish feast begins with an impressive "Montenegrin Seafood Platter" for two, tumbling with grilled scallops, calamari, octopus, jumbo shrimp, and a delicate octopus salad with grilled vegetables. Everything is wonderfully fresh and seasoned with just a touch of a marinade of olive oil, parsley, and garlic. Simple and delicious. We're hooked.

The main dish that follows, angler fish, which I regarded cautiously as I'd only ever experienced it hard and dry, wows us as well. "You have to grill the angler fish just very briefly on each side," Kosic explains, "that’s the whole secret." However he does it: the fish is amazing! It comes with vegetables and sautéed potatoes from the grill, just like on holiday at the Mediterranean. Such a seemingly simple food is absolutely delightful when prepared so finely. We couldn't be happier that summer as Lesendro has only just begun.

Read more in our article about Lesendro Prenzlauer Berg >>>

Constanze Hallensleben

Founder Creme Guides