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Lansk
Meierottostr. 1
10719 Berlin-Wilmersdorf
.How to get there
The kitchen at Lansk has passed its first four months with flying colors.”Home Cooking”, as Rüdiger calls it, is what they do. There's been praise for it from the very beginning. Yesterday, I finally made it to Meierottostraße to take a look around the newest addition on Fasanenplatz myself. In a very clean, softly lit atmosphere, head of service Marc Hanke and his team present to you finest seasonal cooking, each course leading to new levels of exaltation ultimately making it impossible to decide upon a best dish.
The amuse-gueule alone – goose rillettes served along a king oyster mushroom and a balsamic reduction – is truly excellent! The first appetizer 'Pork Belly. Black Radish. Eggplant'. is impressive, not least because of its sweet, tender crust and is followed appropriately by 'Trout. Apple. Horseradish. Dill.'. The fish is extremely delicate, simply tempered and marinated with a pinch of lemon. Euphoria starts spreading!
The fish is succeeded by 'Quail. Celery. Red Wine. Pear.', my personal favorite in the run for 'best dish'. But we're talking about minimal nuances here, because even the main course, 'Fawn Medaillons. Parsnip. Brussel Sprout. Vanilla.' is perfect and coherent in itself. The meat is a juicy pink and tender as can be, the vegetables prepared perfectly, all served with a delicately fragrant reduction.
The wine pairings that Hanke serves with each course are equally and extraordinarily good. The 31-year old son to a Dutch mother and a Spanish father speaks five languages and gets his wine choice from two of the city's best wine merchants: 'Wein & Glas' and 'Viniculture'. Beyond that, Lansk has managed to win famous still Birgitta Rust as one of the country's most creative women in distillery to contribute to its menu.
The pre-dessert 'Goat Cheese with Honey Ice Cream' is as simple as it is good and truly makes for a new kind of enthusiasm. To me, it does not in any way fall behind the visually much more demanding main dessert, 'Valrhona Chocolate Globe. Pear. Tarragon. Biscuit.'. However, no matter how good the chocolate globe by pâtissier Leray Pierrick is, filled with tarragon sorbet and braised marinated pear, it is impossible not to leave a bite behind on the plate. That was a lot of outstanding food!