Jungbluth Brilliant Young Cuisine in Steglitz

One might say that compared to other parts of town, Steglitz, situated in the South-West of Berlin, appears rather provincial. Good, let alone outstanding, cuisine is a scarce commodity, which led me to neglect this area altogether when it came to eating out. That is also what kept me prowling around Jungbluth for a year and a half after its opening before I could finally give up my prejudices and give it a try.

And what could I say? We loved it. Even the second time we went last month. Not to mention last night's visit when we had a table out on the terrace and enjoyed a first class menu. Which leads me to that one small flaw: the interior. However, changes are in the making and the atmosphere is expected to catch up with the food standards soon.

The appetizers off the changing menu were 'Sweet-and-Sour Mackerel' with artichokes, baby spinach and passion fruit sauce, and an equally good 'Lentil Salad' with chanterelles and beetroot. Before that, the kitchen sent out a 'Cold Vichy Soise' with apple and lovage, and made a step in the right direction. Light and fresh, very exquisite!

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Our entrée: 'Gilthead with Thai Eggplant, Navette and Fish Foam', which we simply labelled as genius. Visually as well as flavor-wise! The main courses were just as impressive: 'Branzini with Tomato Quinoa, Eggplant Caviar, Cœur de Bœuf Tomatos and Olive Paste' and 'Roasted Monkfish, Rocket Risotto, Green Asparagus and Radicchio'.

Brilliant! In the middle of Steglitz! Before dessert, happy and full as we were, we took a short break. A cup of green tea helped the soothing and soon enough there was space and appetite again. 'Saturn Peach Ragout on Toffee Mousse, Malt Sand and Sunflower Seeds' and 'Caramelized Greengage Tarte with Basil Semifreddo' were a dashing finale and underlines the summary once more: go once and come back for more!

Constanze Hallensleben

Founder Creme Guides