Foodnews
Fish Klub Summer Residency And suddenly Berlin lies by the sea
© Fish Klub & Itay Novic
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Opening Times
Wednesday + Thursday 12-18 h
Friday 11-18 h
Saturday 10-18 h
Address
Fish Klub Berlin
Eisenbahnstraße 42/43
10997 Berlin-Neukölln
.How to get there
There is only one thing that Berlin lacks: the sea! Müggelsee, Wannsee and Spree in all honour, but nothing beats the ocean and its delicacies. However, this summer, Berlin's pearl among fishmongers, the Fish Klub, is bringing the number one place of longing pretty close to the capital - at least in culinary terms.
From 4 May to 31 July 2022, the fish-savvy team will first retreat from the basement of Wilma Shoppen (sorry, Charlottenburg!) to serve up the freshest oysters, finest wines and brilliant fish dishes in Neukölln. The Fish Klub continues to follow the maxim of establishing sustainability, freshness and traceability in the fish trade.
As usual for Fish Klub, the goods come directly from small fishermen who fish using low-impact fishing methods and act sustainably. Imports are made three times a week straight from the coast, mainly from Brittany.
On our visit to the Neuköllner Sommerresidenz, we started with a platter of oysters - how could and should it be otherwise? A selection of different varieties sits on top: refined, nutty Fine de Claire, of course, with which everything began at Fish Klub, sweet Odette oysters and intense, meaty Utah Beach. We particularly like the mineral Belon oyster, which grows in the Bélon River in Brittany.
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The salty-mineral Cuvée de la Danseuse-Brut Rosé underlines the coastal flavour of the seafood and is also an excellent wine that can accompany us throughout the summer. Although there is a lack of reds on the wine list at Fish Klub Summer Residency, the exclusive focus on white and rosé wines with fish is quite understandable. Organic and natural wines from France and Portugal can be found next to those from Germany, along with sake, beer and cider - c'est ça et c'est bon.
Meanwhile, chef Francisco Hernández and his team demonstrate the whole range of culinary possibilities that fish and seafood can offer in the open kitchen without limiting themselves to a particular cuisine. Only one thing is clear: fish and seafood are without question the focus here.
Be it in the form of a delicious, crispy, intense tostada with XO achiote sauce and juicy shrimp from the grill or aromatic aguachile, the Mexican version of ceviche, which comes with wonderfully tender, line-caught eagle fish. The aquachile is garnished with duck scallops, a proper (and highly contested) delicacy. You don't get this everywhere, but it may not be everyone's cup of tea either. But eagle fish and cockles taste excellent.
Or be it in the form of grilled Norway lobster, which is allowed to remain completely pure apart from the bombastic smoke aromas. Just like the sashimi of line-caught bluefin tuna from the French Atlantic island of Noirmoutier, which is only served with a shoyu of matured soy sauce. When you are allowed to make use of such quality, there is no need for chichi.
And yet a little fancy gimmickry shouldn't be missing. We find it in the only dessert which is also not made without sea creatures: the homemade eclair with a delicate white chocolate layer, yuzu cream and wakame kombu syrup is refined with the leg meat of the spider crab. Although we have to get used to this idea a little at first, the sweet meat combined with the light umami notes of the seaweed and the delicate pastry prove to be an excellent sweet finish. You can, or rather, should try this.
Saturday lunch with fish'n'chips also sounds tempting. In any case, it's not going too far to say that the Fish Klub Summer Residency in Neukölln could and probably will become THE summer hotspot of the year in no time. In summer, you're drawn to the sea. In any case, there is time until 31 July 2022 - what happens after that remains to be seen.
