NOname A Fresh Start on Oranienburger Strasse

For just a few weeks now, sous chef Vicenzo Broszio has been the first man behind the stove at restaurant NOname on Oranienburger Strasse. Ever since, he’s been in charge of a culinary revival at the restaurant. Accompanied by a chirpy team of service staff dressed in red sneakers, sommelier Steve Hartzsch and his carefully-curated wine menu, which closes in on 350 bottles from around the world.

The wine pairing that matches the tasting menus, as well as the recommendations for a la carte dishes, combine quality and plenty of fun. What’s great: you’ll also find five alcohol-free creations featuring vegetables, fruit, oils, and essences. The food is served in the five-meter-high dining room with stucco walls and old parquet floors, framed by curtains that double as wall décor and a larger-than-life lady in shackles towards the back of the room.

The amuse bouche is three-fold, featuring among other things a crispy algae cracker with a crab cream. This is followed by a twofold of scallops or its vegetarian variant with a filigree cabbage cap and a buttermilk base drizzled with dill oil and delightful buckthorn pearls. But it’s a neck-to-neck race with the ray wings set within a velvety bisque with fermented carrot, chili, miso, and sunflower seeds.

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Shiitake with macadamia and leek chips convince with a play of textures and spectrum of aromas. Matched to a glass of ‘La Bota de Manzanilla’ of Equipo Navazo, it’s a discovery you won’t want to miss. Chips and fermented vegetables take the stage on several occasions at NOname. Not a chip but a ‘leather skin’ of beetroot and pear crowns of the finale with hazelnut-infused beetroot ice cream. That’s what we call a successful fresh start!

Manuela Blisse

Author Berlin