Die Sardinen Bar Portuguese seafood in Schöneberg

The Sardine Bar: a name that conjures up many stories in your head. Is it a legendary harbour pub? A maritime bar at your favourite holiday destination? The Schöneberger Sardinen Bar is, of course, far away from the nearest harbour, but it offers a unique fine-dining experience.

In 2016, Thomas Vetter founded the Sardinen Bar in Grunewaldstraße in collaboration with his ex-father-in-law Philippe, who runs Maître Philippe & Filles. The small but fine bistro offers fine-tinned fish combined with wine, that is no less fine.

If you think of Portuguese tradition, you're not wrong. The idea came to Thomas during a joint holiday in Portugal with Philippe, during a visit to Sol e Pesce in Lisbon. The pretty tins and the refined taste of the lovingly pickled sardines immediately appealed to them. Philippe then decided to offer them in his deli, and Thomas opened his bistro and delicatessen online shop.

Fish and wine are the focus here, and not just in name. You immediately notice the numerous bottles and cans behind the counter when you enter the cosy bistro. The latter, in particular, each with its own chic retro design, make quite an impression. So much, in fact, that they also decorate the walls.

1 | 3

We take a seat and are warmly introduced to the concept and the finer points of sardine lore by Thomas. The extensive menu, offers something for all tastes, even for non-fish eaters.

To cover a range, we decide, with some advisory support, on a board to share with five different tins. The elongated boards are a custom construction, magnets keep the cans from slipping. This is accompanied by bread and a light, fresh salad with fruity vinaigrette, the latter helping to neutralise the palate between bites of fish.

After the optimal tasting order has been clarified, we get started. First, there's the vintage sardine (2017 vintage). Like a good wine, this is presented before consumption, and likewise, it takes on more flavour due to extended maturation. The difference to conventional sardines from the supermarket is striking.

They are butter-tender and aromatic. Butter in the truest sense of the word because the second variation is the warm sardine marinated in sauce maltase, i.e. butter sauce with white wine and herbs. Delicious and our favourite so far. We drink wine with it, Portuguese, of course. I enjoy a wonderfully light Moscatel Galego Branco while my companion chooses a Dao Tinto.

The sardines with Piri Piri have a slight, pleasant spiciness balanced out by the mild Bacalao, stockfish with chickpeas. The tuna with a sauce of piment d'Espelet is a particular highlight. Juicy, slightly firm, simply delicious.

The fish in the fine cans are fished sustainably exclusively in the Atlantic. The Sardine Bar does not offer any goods from the overfished Mediterranean. Catch cycles and quantities are observed to keep the stocks healthy.

Dessert is a must, of course, so we finish off with a selection of fine cheeses and a glass of Madeira. The Sardine Bar is really a special place to spend pleasant evenings. If you're not so keen on canned fish, there are other dishes on the menu, such as fish and chips. When we get up, the next table is served extremely appealing-looking sandwiches, which we will definitely make a point of having on our next visit.

Maximilian Zeh

Marketing & PR