Cinco by Paco Pérez A Spaniard has arrived

At first, it wasn’t easy to unify the Spanish culinary art with the needs of the local guests. This concession wasn’t easy for Spanish kitchen chef Paco Pérez, who’d already been recognised by the Michelin guide five times back home. Now it would seem he’s made it. We were there last weekend. At the zoo. In Das Stue hotel. In Cinco by Paco Pérez. It was brilliant!

We arrive early. Host Christian Böckmann personally greets us. The ambience is so warm and cozy, just as throughout the whole house. We take our place and listen to an introduction of the menu. Ten courses await us. A lot of fish and seafood. Including some unusual dishes, like sea urchin and sea cucumber. We’re immediately served seven exclusive tapas, whose light sweetness are supposed to awaken the senses and prepare them for the actual menu. Accompanying wines are also served, exciting us from the first glass.

The "Winter Consommé" as a kick-off is divine. Intense. Aromatic. It comes together with a cep cracker with a consistency similar to that of prawn crackers. The next two plates follow with delicate florentine with pine nuts as well as leaflike figures topped with liquid-filled bowls and small baguette-shaped meringue with mushroom ice cream. Completely edible orange wedges and pink foliage with raspberry flavour along with a minute cold-warm pumpkin torte finalise this one-of-a-kind round dance. Wonderful!

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The "Sea Odyssey" then brings us tuna, sea urchin, shrimp, caviar, algae, and avocado, the "Sow Beans" Iberico ham, Spanish blood sausage, and prawns. The blood sausage is particularly amazing! Everything is to be tasted. Experienced. Enjoyed. The subsequent "Peas" with "Jelly, Beef, Hollandaise" are one of the highlights. The warm and cold components. Powdered. Nitrogen comes into play. The peas handpicked and crisp. Splendid!

The "Lobster" is a particular favourite of my companion. We’re slightly hesitant to try the "Dragonhead", arranged with sea cucumber, endive, and black pepper, but the fish as well as all the other components tastes wonderful. Buttery. Decadent! The "Dove" is a successful conclusion before the desserts, which we also find absolutely thrilling. Once more an exciting spectacle! The entire evening, simply brilliant!

Constanze Hallensleben

Founder Creme Guides